Oct 2005

London, capital of England, Great Britain and United Kingdom, most likely the only city in the world that's a capital three times over. Please don't even ask me to explain the difference. I tried once long time ago make sense of this but to no avail. Suffice to say that being a country only the size of New Zealand but once an empire that ruled over half the world, perhaps it's a hangover imperialistic behaviour of the yesteryears...who knows.

I arrived in London by the ever efficient Eurostar, a very very fast train from Paris to London's Waterloo Station, the entire journey only take about 2.5 hours. Damien, a fellow kiwi who migrated to London for the 'greener pastures' together with his now wife, Evelyn were waiting for me. It was indeed wonderful to see familiar faces again! D&E are the most atypical accountants you would come across. Damien with his jovial disposition and the bigger than life Evelyn, who easily commands your attention through her booming voice, perhaps to make up for her lack of height, or so I would tease her.

My dread in having to spend exuberent amount of money by virtue of the expensive cost of living in London and also the high value pounds was somewhat alleviated slightly by D&E's kindness in letting me stay with them. I must say in that respect I've been very lucky so far having to stay in a hostel only once in Amsterdam and since then, had friends coming to the rescue! However, I have a feeling the money I've saved up from accomodation will now be spent in this extravagant city.. The evening of 2 October was spent catching up with them both. Evelyn is also from Malaysian and so she relished being able to switch to speaking Hokkien with me, our commonly shared Chinese dialect from the state of Penang, Malaysia, where our parents derived from.

3 October

D&E, who had been entertaining other friends prior to my arrival, were helpful with providing all the typical tourist like pamphlets offering bus tours, walking tours etc but wild horses wouldn't drag them through another of those with me given that they've already done 8...EACH! So I was more than happy to excuse their lack of interest..a worry really when each of them could repeat word for word the tour guides' commentaries and they could even produce the same exact voice and monotones as the museum audio guides...so off I went on my own to explore what London has to offer.

Raphy (from France) had said that if I don't do anything in London, I should at least go and see one play/musical in West End (I knew London was where my wallet was going to get lighter). I half heartedly agreed but didn't really think I would find anything that would interest me but lo and behold! There were a few! Les Miserables was playing and so was the Lion King! I always wanted to see the Lion King and so it didn't take much to twist my arm (and open my wallet) before a ticket was purchased for the next night. I was extremely excited and would have jumped for joy (and click my heels together) if it wasn't for the fact that I was among the serious conservative English, hear, hear!

Bought one of those "BIG BUS TOUR" ticket to see London where you pay 20 pounds for 24 hours worth of bus ride across the famous tourist attractions. You can also step off and get back on again during this time. But wait! There is more! You also get to go for your choice of 1 of 5 walking tours available and if that wasn't a good deal enough, they even threw in a free ferry ride down the Thames! (What made you think they paid me to say this?!!!)

I walked from where D&E stayed to St Paul's cathedral which is a beautiful old church located in the centre of London and also the starting point of my bus tour journey. No sooner than 10 minutes from getting on the bus, I could see the tower bridge approaching and right beside it, the Tower of London, the historic castle originally built by William the Conqueror in 1066 and later expanded by the English Kings and Queens. I decided this would be a good spot to get off the bus as I could spend some time touring the castle and coincidentally, my free ferry ride takes off from the pier just beside the castle too. We Asians are well known for killing many birds with one stone (or boulder if that's required). The ticket cost 15 pounds (I tried hard to stop myself from converting that to kiwi dollars..that's freaking NZ$45!!! Arrrgh) Ok, slow yoga breathing....think of sipping tea with the Queen...

Outside St Paul's Cathederal on a gloomy English day, even that didn't put me off!

One of the many castles located within the Tower ground. This one houses the country's crown jewels. Although not able to take photos, I can confirm that I've seen the largest cut diamond in the world (The Cullinan I) *drool* gimme, gimme.....

Me standing outside by castle, with the red guard with Marge Simpson hairdo and his crown jewels..err, I mean he's guarding Her Majesty's jewels..

So, once I got my ticket (the vendor having to rip the money from my tight clutches...) I joined the rest of the Japanese tourists (could have sworn it was the same trigger happy clicking group from France) and made my way into the castle gate. Waiting for us there was a Yeoman Warder. Yeoman wha??!! Funny you should ask, a Yeoman Warder is a former serviceman to Her Majesty from any of her comonwealth countries, rewarded by the the Queen for his (yes, sexist pigs!!)service to the country and the reward allows the Yeoman to stay and live in the castle grounds with his family and to show pestering tourists around the castle. Did I say reward?!! These Warders wear an interesting bright blue and red costume (see below) which made it hard for me to imagine them as serious SAS officers or Warrant Officers in Her Majesty's army. Our particular Yeoman was a real character as he took us through the 50 minutes tour (I counted to see where my NZ45(!!!) got me). His narration of the history of the place often accompanied by quirky and witty remarks of a guide who no doubt takes his work seriously and thoroughly enjoying himself in the process.

That's our Yeoman Warder..he was once part of England's first line of defence against the enemies..

From our Yeoman I learnt that the Tower of London that were originally used as residence to the Kings and Queens of England were later abandoned and used as storage for armoury, artilery and gun powder but more imoportantly, it was also used as a prison where several infamous occupants were beheaded. Amongst them, Anne Boleyn and Katherine Howard (2nd and 5th wives respectively of King Henry VIII), and Lady Jane Grey, the 17 year old would-be queen. Ooookk, mental note for women ever feeling the urge to go back to the past. Never do the following as a queen: Barren, cheat on your husband (who has 8 other mistresses anyway) and be ambitious daddy's political pawn.

I won't bore you with the rest of the historical journey that I took visiting the rest of the Tower but suffice to say that the White Tower (which was the original castle), together with the 4 other towers were truly impressive in terms of its medieval design, right up to the renovations carried out by subsequent rulers of the land. I took lots of pictures but won't clog up the disc space her with them.

Also from just outside the castle, you get an awesome view of the Tower bridge as you can see. This was the main bridge that originally separates London from the rest of the world. Many Kings in the past have used the Thames to travel to the Tower on business as opposed to using the conventional carriage in order to try and avoid paparazis, autograph hunters and of course, Oliver Cromwell (the dictator that turned England into a republic for a very short time).

The English don't do anything without style and aplomb do they?

Then after being satisfied that I've spent enough time in the Tower to justify spending NZ45!!!! on a tour ticket, I made my way to the pier to enjoy my FREE fery ride. It was rather a pleasant evening trip down the Thames, especially when due to a technology failure, one of the boat's crew, a young 15 year old boy ended up being our tour guide. He apologised profusely prior to his commentary which he feared would not be good enough for us. By the end of the tour, I think there wasn't a doubt in a single member of the tour's mind that the impromptu guide was not really that impromptu after all..very clever. I shall stop here as many of what I saw will later be described in more detail in my next and last day in London.

1 October

It is indeed without doubt a city of love. Before setting foot in France, I didn't understand why it earned this title. Sure, The Eifel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe are great, they got lots of museums, but how do these stone cold buildings and historical artefacts inspire heart to skip faster and the emotions to flow? The answer my friend is as the french says...Paris has a sense of 'je ne sais quoi' about it. It's not one thing that stands out but the entire city together, from the incredible romantic setting borne from a successful marriage of artistic and scientific designs in architecture, to the beautiful fresh flowers of kaleidescope colours strategically displayed by the grocer in the morning at its corner shop at the fringe of the city, the grand parks and gardens, lustrous green acres adorned with the glorious fountains and monuments from ancient Greece, Rome and Egypt, right down to the simple joy carved at a young man's face as he cycles down a narrow street with his shy girlfriend sitting behind him, holding on to him and smiling contently to herself. Scenes like these are constantly in abundance, it is no wonder that they cause strolling couples to pause their journey and to turn around gazing into each another's eyes before softly kissing, savouring the moment, the moment when everything feels right...because Paris says so, no, Paris expects love..and the couples lost in its magic were naturally drawn to answer this call.

As I didn't have the fortune to stick my tongue down some poor guy's throat, I settled instead to enjoy the company of friends. Raphy and I were lucky enough to have his 2 year old daughter, Lianne, and French no.1 female badminton player, Pi Hongyan (ranked no.3 in the world) joined us for our exrcursion on my second last day in Paris. As Raphy's a reporter, he'd became good friends with Pi and so our outing doubled as a catch up session for them both.

We went to Montmartre, which in 19th century, used to be the 'hang out' place for the creative types, writers, artists, politicians.. did you just laugh out loud?! Today it is an area of mimes, buskers, tacky souvenir shops and commercial artists.

Talking of souvenirs, if you were previously expecting any, this is the time for you to rid yourself of this utopian delusion. That's right, no lil mini Eifel towers, wooden clogs or teapots shaped in the head of the Queen or Charles..or Camillia for that matter, urgh!
It is hard enough carrying myself across Europe with my turtle shell without the extra weight and dangling sounds from dragging them around. So sorry..you'll just have to make do with this journal :P

Also located on top of a hill in Montmatre is the Basilique du Sacred Coeur, built in 1870's as a result of a vow taken by Parisian Catholics (they don't take their vows lightly those days). From the top of this hill you get a good view of the city too.

It may look like I'm posing, but I'm actually trying to transfer the energy of happiness to the sad looking bars I'm holding on to..yes, that's what I'm doing..

At the centre of the small town, I took a few pictures as you will see. The waiters at any of these restaurants continue to wear the typical waiter type clothing of the 19th century era to create that ambience which inspired the artists in the past.

In front of one of the oldest building in France, going back some centuries ago (yes, I forgot the date, kiss my ass!)

Garcon! His name is Gerard..but for an extra 5 Euro, I could call him anything I wanted..

Then we took a train into town, and got off at the Arc de Triomphe! I finally got what Raphy meant about the ridiculous round-about. Cars tooting and swerving right and left to try to get on to the roundabout! Apparently, if you can drive through this roundabout, you can expect to receive a diploma that says you are now skilled to drive anywhere else in the world...not sure if i want to die trying..

The reason why I looked so stiff is because I was standing in the middle of the road, only inches away from that mad roundabout when the pic was taken, sorry if I look like I was clenching my butt so tight I could crush nuts!

From there, we strolled down the world famous street, the Champ-Elysee, where the creme de la creme of French consumer stores set up their business to rob you blind. Great street to walk on and window shop, and unless you feel like paying NZ$20 for cup of coffee, I wouldn't recommend eating or drinking there either.

We continued walking into town and I took more photos but I'll save them until I get back, so at least I'll have a good excuse to have you guys pay for my meals as I show you my pictures. I must admit while we walked that day for 5 hours, you certainly don't feel the time flew perhaps because there were so many things to see. I did notice that the French do walk around taking oxygen from a higher plane..(aka snobbish) and while I don't think that's a commendable trait, I certainly come to realise then that perhaps it's not so much arrogance that make them walk around with baseball bats stuck up their peverbials, but more the case of pride...pride to be the citizens of country of immense wealth in history, and decendants of pioneers in the advancement and cultivation of knowledge, arts, science and culture to the highest degree. And if you ever pull out a bat from one of their arses, you will see that the bat would have been designed in a greco roman style and had been left behind (excuse the pun) from the previous 7 generations of the family.

2 October

Last day in France. Still haven't had a chance to see the Notre Dame. Had only 5 hours sleep, staying up writing this journal. So half asleep and probably looking like a chinese immigrant that just got let out of the container at the harbour, I made my way to Notre Dame. The night before a celebration was held there in honour of the Brazilian catholics living in France. The cathedral which is normally lit up at night was dark except for the light projection of Jesus against the front wall of the church, this projection being a copy image of the huge statue of Jesus situated at the St Jude Mountain in Brazil (I think...)

During the day, it's still impressive, given that its white ivory like walls look different to many of the buildings built around the same time in the city. The splendour of this building is evident from the craftiness of the design and workmanship, not too surprising perhaps given that it took more than 180 years of hard labour before it was completed in 1345.

View of the front, note the size!

Taken from the inside on one of the stained mirrors. There were at least 14 of them, all beautifully done and the light from the chandaliers hung in the centre illuminates these stained windows fortelling a tale of the past so vividly and beautifully.

View of the southern wall of the church. Look at the intricate design of this holy place of worship.

The end of my Notre Dame tour also marks the end of my visit to Paris. A sense of sadness filled me as I walked back to catch the subway train to take me back to my apartment. It was like an end of a delectable affair..one where you know the conclusion is inevitable but you kept on hoping that perhaps miraculously..the affair would last and it was the same for me..a reluctant farewell..stubbornly and perhaps understandably, I prefer "A bientot" instead of "au revoir".

And my utmost gratitude to Raphy and his family (and Pi) for their time, kindness and patience (plenty of it) in showing me their pride and joy, their land, their home. I'm really humbled by it all.

AO rating: A whirlwind affair taking me by storm, but leaving behind not devastation but cherishable memories to last a lifetime. An affair definitely worth a rekindling...

This is the castle where Mary Antoinette, Queen of France and wife to Louis XVI, was executed during the 3rd French revolution. Past so tragic, Presently so romantic...

30 September

After hearing from Mark that I would at least need a day or two to fully appreciate the Lourve, I decided to dedicate this entire day to visiting it. The weather was gloomy with the heavy black clouds threatening to pour down and so I was glad that I would be spending most of the day inside.

Arrived at the Lourve and managed to buy my ticket without having to stand too long in the queue, still too early for those Japanese tourists I guess, muhahaha! Once inside and armed with my audio guide and detail plan of the museum and its specific exhibits (slowly turning into a seasoned museum tourist I know...), I was ready to be cultured and educated. Beam me up Da Vinci!! That's right, amongst many other things, the priceless Mona Lisa IS IN DA HOUSE!!

Just to give you an idea of what I was up against, the Lourve museum is divided into 3 different sections, namely Sully, Denton and Richelieu. Each section has 4 floors and each floor has different exhibition(s) and there can be up to 20 rooms on each floor. So basically, if you do the maths, we're talking about 240 rooms of history, art, culture and priceless artefacts. I was in heaven! The genre on offer on the day of my visit was Art of Islam, Sculptures, Egyptian Antiquities, Greek, Etruscan and Roman Antiquities and the Medieval Louvre on the ground floor, Oriental and Egyptian Antiquities, more Roman and Greek Antiquities and arts of Africa; Asia, Oceania and Americas on the first floor, Objects d'art, Italian and French paintings and prints & drawings on the 2nd floor and on the 3rd floor, we have German; Flemish and Dutch paintings & drawings and Russian; Belgian, Swiss and Scandinavian paintings & drawings...yeah, that's all, not much :P

Words could not describe all the amazing things I saw, especially the Greek & Roman sculptures. I also confirmed my theory that Greek & Roman men took steroids, that's the only fallible explanation to why they've such muscular and big bodies but with small errr..you know...not that I was looking too closely of course *cough* (sooo glad they're not ice sculptures). It was endless series of facinating piece of history, one after the other..each time you think you've seen the most amazing sculpture, you then walk into the next room and there's the gigantic statue of Diana, Goddess of War that just blew you away.

Also equally impressive was the Crown Diamonds Room filled with the royal crowns and jewellery belonging mostly to Napoleon Bonaparte and his first Queen, Josephine. Talking of which, just like in Versailles, we were treated to Napoleon's apartment which in my humble opinion, was even more opulently and luxuriously decorated than his predecessors' chambers. Like many of the rooms in his apartment, the dining room was probably the most impressionable with 8 grand and large chandaliers lighting it, fully convincing me that the largest French import during that time must have been candles.

Then there were the paintings and drawings. Goodness me, room after room of incredible lifelike paintings by famous Italian and French artists. One of the more notable one was the coronation ceremony of Napoleon Bonaparte as painted by the royal artist to His Highness, David. Nothing obviously though could even come close to the hauntingly beautiful Mona Lisa, the room of which this painting was kept I saved for last...A funny incident took place here too. There was a sign in front of the picture that says no cameras allowed, obviously for fear of what the camera flashes would do to the lighting of this old painting. They have this Morrocan staff worker whose job was to walk around telling ppl off if they do decide to try and take any pictures. So I felt sorry for her when this incident happened. She walked across to one end of the group to tell them off for taking pictures but while she was doing that, at the other end, the flashes were going off as ppl used this opportunity to take some on the other side. This lady would then walked to this group and tell them off for taking the pictures and the other end would then start clicking away. So this poor lady just walked left to right constantly yelling out "excusez-moi, no pictures, s'il vous plait" to no avail.

I must confess towards the 5.5 hour mark of my visit yet to another room full of paintings, I began to lose interest and started to just skim through the paintings and walk out again. I liken this 'overdose of information' to when you see a Bargain Bin during a clothing Sale and there's tonnes of people rummaging through hundreds of clothing. They might be good quality clothing but somehow seeing so many of them in bulk and so easily available seemed to make you appreciate them less, a case of 'less is more' definitely. The wow factor took a hit and I knew then that I've seen enough that day and it was time to call it a day.

Venus/Apphrodite, The Roman/Greek Goddess of Love. Yes I know she pales in comparison when taken next to me...oh woe is her... :P

From the outside, The glass pyramid in front of the Louvre. Took more pictures, but afraid I'm running out of disc space to show all. Maybe when I get back...

That evening, Raphy cooked me dinner, not altogether French but I did try the 'foie gras' which is a goose liver pate, a specialty here in France, an appetizer normally favoured by the high class society, sharing the limelight with other fancy appetizers such as salmon or caviar. Anyone who knows me knows that I hate liver with a passion but for some reason, I really like this but Raphy assured me that I don't want to know how they're made or I'll never eat them again. Once again I opened my mouth and then thought better and kept on eating...

Tomorrow, will be walking to the Arc de Triumphe, Champs-Elyseé and all around the city to take in the general view of the city.