When the East meets the West!

4 October

Part of going on this super "Big Bus Tour" the day before allowed me one free entry into one of the walking tours and taking up this opportunity, I set for the meeting place for the walk, Trafalgar Square, which was of course, just slightly further than the Strand but if I land on the "community chest" and the card says go straight to jail and not collect $200", then I'm screwed :P Yes folks, who said Monopoly was just a game?! It was like a topographical map for me.

Today's walking tour would take us from Trafalgar Square to Buckingham Palace through a cobblestone path called the Mall (pronounced "mahl") so as to discourage Harrods mogul, Al-Fayed from storming into and taking over the palace and turning it into yet another shopping disneyland (will elaborate on this later). It was the second day that the sun shone unaccompanied by any clouds, which in itself is a highlight of this visit!

Trafalgar in the early morning (before the sun came through and the clouds disappeared)

The arc seperating Trafalgar Square from "the Mall"

Our tour guide promised that this path will lead us to witnessing the changing of the guards, which takes place every 48 hours (afterall, sooner or later, the guards on duty will either need to relieve themselves or go watch soccer, most likely the latter being more of a pressing matter).

The Mall is roughly about 800 metres long with the St James Park on both its left and right side and you can see statues of previous Dukes of York (title given to 2nd son of the King/Queen - current one being Prince Andrew, you know, the one that married the 'ginga'!). The tour guide begailing us with stories of the past Dukes' mischiefs (middle child syndrome?) to kill time while we await the new guards to march out from St James Palace (the old palace of the monarch)where they have been practising and rehearsing how to stand still and do bugger all (not for the feeble minded you know..) Eventually, we know they were about to emerge when Her Majesty's royal calvary (guards on horses) trotted from Buckingham Palace to St James, to escort the guards. It was really a magnificent sight to behold, noble horses and their riders, smartly dressed in glory, medals shining and dangling from their chests. A less elegant but yet amusing sight followed, in the form of a small green truck with two big round brushes at its front, gracefully cleaning up the poos left behind by the horses.

can't see the green truck, but it's there!

Few minutes later, the unmistakable sound of bagpipes tore through the air and soon after, a band of bagpipe players in their dark and blue green kilts (no matching wooly underwears detected..I checked to be sure they keep to tradition..) proudly marched in unison, leading the new guards, the first few on horses and the rest on foot, left right, left right...in perfect syncronised rhythm, their well polished shoes tapping the stone path together, ocassionally interrupted by the sounds of 'ooohs' and 'aaahs' and cameras clicking away (Japanese tourist brigade in tow...). We followed them until they marched into the Buckingham Palace ground and the iron gate closing behind them. Any thought of perhaps this was the end of the tour was soon forgotten when we heard a marching band music playing, getting louder and louder as the other new guards arrived (from another path leading to the palace) and also making their way into the palace grounds. Then the changing of guards ceremony took place. The leading music band would play a few tunes and the guards led by this bad would move forward. Then other music band would play and the guards they led would move forward from the other direction. Slowly but surely these two group of new guards then merged to meet the old guards and after captains of both 'new' and 'old' guards exchange their duty garments and ornaments, then the old guards marched and separated into two groups, each group marching until they're behind the two music bands. Then the new guards marched further into the palace grounds and the old guards were then led by the music bands as they march out of the palace. All very prim, proper and organised, wouldn't have expected anything less from the English.

Guards entering Buckingham Palace

That was when our walking tour ended and we were 'dismissed'. I then made my way to Hyde Park, which is just beside the palace. This park would be the city's equivallent to our Auckland Domain or Hagley Park, except that it's like 10 to 15 times bigger and it is also the home to the Kensington Palace (where Princess Di used to live), Princess Di memorial and Prince Albert Memorial. I decided I was now ready for the 'running' tour. You see, I refused to give up my jogging for fear of losing my fitness (walking's just not the same). In fact, I've gone as far as trying to ensure I do at least one run in every country. So far been successful except for in France due to the more rainy weather over there.

Greeting me at the entrance to the park was the bronze statue of Achilles, in his naked splendour. I chuckled to myself as I recall the bus tour guide's explanation on this statue the evening before. She said that this naked statue was the first of its kind to be unveiled in London in the mid 19th century. When the public first saw it, the reactions of 4 women were ghastly! The first two fainted. The third one had a stroke and the fourth just couldn't reach! :P :P

I couldn't reach either dang nabbit!

I ran all the way to Kensington Palace but was a bit disappointed that it was just a modern structure, nothing impressive and certainly not picture worthy! However, my disappointment was short lived further into my run when I came across the larger than life statue of Prince Albert, beloved husband of Queen Victoria who orchestrated this over-the-top tribute in the form of this memorial to show her undying love for him. She was so saddened by his death that she had the entire city's railings, lamp posts all painted black and ever since then, Londoners could never imagine their city look any more cheerful than this.

Lucky Albert aye?!

Looking at the time, I finished up my run so I could go visit Harrods department store. You're all probably thinking why would the history mad Adelina be interested in a gigantic shopping mecca? Well, I asked Evelyn the same question when she suggested this as a must-see! She then explained that Harrods are more than just Ballantynes or Smiths & Coheys..this is a store that is rich in tradition and customs as it is expensively catered for the upper class customers. Each department has a theme and decorated accordingly, like the Egyptian room that has a gigantic statue of a sphinx guarding its wares, right down to the 'elegant lady's public convenience room', that's right...good ol' loo even got a shape-up. They also have their own Harrods Bank which dated back to the 19th century, today it serves more as a money changer than a real bank. It was certainly interesting and worth having a look, but definitely a case of "once is enough".

All smells money and prestige ain't it?

From there, I took a very brisk walk to the Parliament House and Westminister abbey to take more pictures. On the way there, I walked past the Lincoln Inn, where the new lawyers get admitted to the bar. Nice place to get admitted...I was so jealous!

Of course, Parliament House is where the Parliament Tower, the infamous landmark of London lives, better known around the world for the name of the bell in the tower, Big Ben. West Minister abbey of course is the monarch's church and where many of its past kings and queens were buried.

Sure beats the beehive hands down doesn't it?

View of the front of Westminister Abbey

View from the back..England's answer to the French's Notre Dame.

Can't go to London and not take a picture of this!

I made it home just in time to grab a quick bite and a shower before rushing out again to finally see my first London West End musical, the Lion King. In my rush to run to the taxi, I slipped and fell, grazing my knee and elbow in the process and no, unlike my runs, this will not be repeated in other countries *fingers crossed*.

Arrived at the Lyceum building in the nick of time. I've been sitting here for 5 minutes trying to think of how to describe the musical. UNBELIEVABLE would be the closest adjective and yet still an understatement. The singing, the acting, special effects especially how they created the giraffes, gizzelles and elephants from humans were simply amazing. This certainly would go down as one of the best things I have ever done. Watch out you all, when I get back, I'll be looking for musical buddies....so "BE PREPARED..."

The show was truly the icing on the London cake. Unfortunately, my evening was tainted slightly by a 'bug' that landed on the cake. I have had a great rapport and respect for London's black cabbies because they're professional taxi drivers but the one I encountered on my way home was indeed an exception, rather than the rule. I won't go into detail regarding his rude behaviour but suffice to say, he must have realised it too in that when I gave him 10 pounds for the 8 pounds 20 pence ride, he claimed that he gave me back only a pound and claimed not to have any change, obviously realising I was not going to voluntarily tip him. He said 'sorry' and then proceeded to say 'actually, I'm not sorry, it's just the way it goes'. It takes all sorts I guess.

So that's London..short but certainly sweet!
AO Rating: Like its Queen, this country's capital has aged really well in accomodating the hustle and bustle of its long working days and sleepless nights of lights, dance, pubs, plays and musicals. If you're here, you'll be working and playing hard, no doubt about that!

Tomorrow, I'm off to Prague, the City of Castles!!

London, capital of England, Great Britain and United Kingdom, most likely the only city in the world that's a capital three times over. Please don't even ask me to explain the difference. I tried once long time ago make sense of this but to no avail. Suffice to say that being a country only the size of New Zealand but once an empire that ruled over half the world, perhaps it's a hangover imperialistic behaviour of the yesteryears...who knows.

I arrived in London by the ever efficient Eurostar, a very very fast train from Paris to London's Waterloo Station, the entire journey only take about 2.5 hours. Damien, a fellow kiwi who migrated to London for the 'greener pastures' together with his now wife, Evelyn were waiting for me. It was indeed wonderful to see familiar faces again! D&E are the most atypical accountants you would come across. Damien with his jovial disposition and the bigger than life Evelyn, who easily commands your attention through her booming voice, perhaps to make up for her lack of height, or so I would tease her.

My dread in having to spend exuberent amount of money by virtue of the expensive cost of living in London and also the high value pounds was somewhat alleviated slightly by D&E's kindness in letting me stay with them. I must say in that respect I've been very lucky so far having to stay in a hostel only once in Amsterdam and since then, had friends coming to the rescue! However, I have a feeling the money I've saved up from accomodation will now be spent in this extravagant city.. The evening of 2 October was spent catching up with them both. Evelyn is also from Malaysian and so she relished being able to switch to speaking Hokkien with me, our commonly shared Chinese dialect from the state of Penang, Malaysia, where our parents derived from.

3 October

D&E, who had been entertaining other friends prior to my arrival, were helpful with providing all the typical tourist like pamphlets offering bus tours, walking tours etc but wild horses wouldn't drag them through another of those with me given that they've already done 8...EACH! So I was more than happy to excuse their lack of interest..a worry really when each of them could repeat word for word the tour guides' commentaries and they could even produce the same exact voice and monotones as the museum audio guides...so off I went on my own to explore what London has to offer.

Raphy (from France) had said that if I don't do anything in London, I should at least go and see one play/musical in West End (I knew London was where my wallet was going to get lighter). I half heartedly agreed but didn't really think I would find anything that would interest me but lo and behold! There were a few! Les Miserables was playing and so was the Lion King! I always wanted to see the Lion King and so it didn't take much to twist my arm (and open my wallet) before a ticket was purchased for the next night. I was extremely excited and would have jumped for joy (and click my heels together) if it wasn't for the fact that I was among the serious conservative English, hear, hear!

Bought one of those "BIG BUS TOUR" ticket to see London where you pay 20 pounds for 24 hours worth of bus ride across the famous tourist attractions. You can also step off and get back on again during this time. But wait! There is more! You also get to go for your choice of 1 of 5 walking tours available and if that wasn't a good deal enough, they even threw in a free ferry ride down the Thames! (What made you think they paid me to say this?!!!)

I walked from where D&E stayed to St Paul's cathedral which is a beautiful old church located in the centre of London and also the starting point of my bus tour journey. No sooner than 10 minutes from getting on the bus, I could see the tower bridge approaching and right beside it, the Tower of London, the historic castle originally built by William the Conqueror in 1066 and later expanded by the English Kings and Queens. I decided this would be a good spot to get off the bus as I could spend some time touring the castle and coincidentally, my free ferry ride takes off from the pier just beside the castle too. We Asians are well known for killing many birds with one stone (or boulder if that's required). The ticket cost 15 pounds (I tried hard to stop myself from converting that to kiwi dollars..that's freaking NZ$45!!! Arrrgh) Ok, slow yoga breathing....think of sipping tea with the Queen...

Outside St Paul's Cathederal on a gloomy English day, even that didn't put me off!

One of the many castles located within the Tower ground. This one houses the country's crown jewels. Although not able to take photos, I can confirm that I've seen the largest cut diamond in the world (The Cullinan I) *drool* gimme, gimme.....

Me standing outside by castle, with the red guard with Marge Simpson hairdo and his crown jewels..err, I mean he's guarding Her Majesty's jewels..

So, once I got my ticket (the vendor having to rip the money from my tight clutches...) I joined the rest of the Japanese tourists (could have sworn it was the same trigger happy clicking group from France) and made my way into the castle gate. Waiting for us there was a Yeoman Warder. Yeoman wha??!! Funny you should ask, a Yeoman Warder is a former serviceman to Her Majesty from any of her comonwealth countries, rewarded by the the Queen for his (yes, sexist pigs!!)service to the country and the reward allows the Yeoman to stay and live in the castle grounds with his family and to show pestering tourists around the castle. Did I say reward?!! These Warders wear an interesting bright blue and red costume (see below) which made it hard for me to imagine them as serious SAS officers or Warrant Officers in Her Majesty's army. Our particular Yeoman was a real character as he took us through the 50 minutes tour (I counted to see where my NZ45(!!!) got me). His narration of the history of the place often accompanied by quirky and witty remarks of a guide who no doubt takes his work seriously and thoroughly enjoying himself in the process.

That's our Yeoman Warder..he was once part of England's first line of defence against the enemies..

From our Yeoman I learnt that the Tower of London that were originally used as residence to the Kings and Queens of England were later abandoned and used as storage for armoury, artilery and gun powder but more imoportantly, it was also used as a prison where several infamous occupants were beheaded. Amongst them, Anne Boleyn and Katherine Howard (2nd and 5th wives respectively of King Henry VIII), and Lady Jane Grey, the 17 year old would-be queen. Ooookk, mental note for women ever feeling the urge to go back to the past. Never do the following as a queen: Barren, cheat on your husband (who has 8 other mistresses anyway) and be ambitious daddy's political pawn.

I won't bore you with the rest of the historical journey that I took visiting the rest of the Tower but suffice to say that the White Tower (which was the original castle), together with the 4 other towers were truly impressive in terms of its medieval design, right up to the renovations carried out by subsequent rulers of the land. I took lots of pictures but won't clog up the disc space her with them.

Also from just outside the castle, you get an awesome view of the Tower bridge as you can see. This was the main bridge that originally separates London from the rest of the world. Many Kings in the past have used the Thames to travel to the Tower on business as opposed to using the conventional carriage in order to try and avoid paparazis, autograph hunters and of course, Oliver Cromwell (the dictator that turned England into a republic for a very short time).

The English don't do anything without style and aplomb do they?

Then after being satisfied that I've spent enough time in the Tower to justify spending NZ45!!!! on a tour ticket, I made my way to the pier to enjoy my FREE fery ride. It was rather a pleasant evening trip down the Thames, especially when due to a technology failure, one of the boat's crew, a young 15 year old boy ended up being our tour guide. He apologised profusely prior to his commentary which he feared would not be good enough for us. By the end of the tour, I think there wasn't a doubt in a single member of the tour's mind that the impromptu guide was not really that impromptu after all..very clever. I shall stop here as many of what I saw will later be described in more detail in my next and last day in London.